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Those Moschino Graffiti Dresses Are Fucking Phenomenal

The latest collection from the Jeremy Scott led Moschino was unveiled last week. In keeping with Scott’s luxury lampooning, nineties nostalgia romps, Fall 2015 has puff parodies and Looney Tunes love and denim and gold duets. It’s typically wacky work prepared for celebrities like Rihanna and Katy Perry to jump around in. Outside of this, there doesn’t quite seem to be a point outside of snickers.

This collection is different though, because of the gowns that closed the show. He’s previously used candy bars and Malibu sleepwear as referential, nostalgia bases but this go around he went somewhere a bit deeper and (frankly) better: the material was graffitied fabric, akin to New York subway cars before the aughts.

Tagged nametags and spray paint bottle purses included, these gowns coalesce the collection. The nineties references don’t seem fraught with jokiness: it isn’t a one-liner. It instead feels tied to history, popular and not. It feels insider and edgy while being accessible to all. The forms are classic but have been painted over, old school style, as an illustration that nothing (not even your body) is off limits from taggers.

Jeremy Scott Moschino Fall 2015 Graffiti Gown 1234KYLE5678 1

The gowns are exciting, perhaps Moschino and Scott’s most exciting work to date. These gowns go to a place that past Scott couldn’t get to previously, even when he worked with an historic graffiti artist. They almost certainly could only exist in this collection as it validates everything that came before it: it really makes sense. Yes, there are some duds, whose failures are a result of constraint and minimalism. If you are going to spray paint a dress, don’t hold back. Use every color and get at every edge. When that happened, you get phenomenal futuristic, retro gazing gowns.

I’m very excited to see these dresses worn (by Rihanna and Katy Perry). (But, really, someone should have worn one of these to the Oscars. It would have been the ultimate statement of modernity, iconoclasm, fashion, and fun. We need more of that.)

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